Gasherbrum 1 (8068m)


The first route of Gasherbrum 1 (8068 m) has remained closed since the mid-80s due to the Siachen conflict. It is now usually being climbed from its most prominent route from the plateau on Gasherbrum Glacier. The more popular route in the recent years has been the Gasherbrum La up to the Japanese Culvert or the routes along the north ridge. The other alternate route is the west ridge, which is technically less demanding but takes longer time due to the long distance between Camp I and the summit.

Apart from some technical difficulties in the lower part, the snow face high up sometimes poses a danger of avalanche after new snow falls.

The lowest by a small footage of the Karakoram 8000+ mountains is Gasherbrum – I. At 8035m it has been described by climbers as an impressive but achievable peak, much like Cho Oyu in this respect but with a walk to its base camp that is said to be the best trek in the world. Its climb provides a perfect mountaineering experience. G2 stands in the majestic neighborhood of K2 in a close line-up of world’s highest peaks in the titanic amphitheater of Concordia that has no parallel in the world.

The snow-face of the South-West Ridge presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces and ridges once you are above the plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It is a steep way up in some sections.

From above the snowy Banana Ridge, you continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp 2 is generally set up. From here you climb a couple of ice pitches and then up the face going steeper before you reach the shoulder, the site of C3 at 7490m. After three pitches from there, it is a diagonal way across the face from where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge.

The climb from there is straight on a wide-open expanse with glorious surroundings but a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.

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Gasherbrum 1 (8068m)